{"id":573,"date":"2010-02-16T09:44:47","date_gmt":"2010-02-16T05:44:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ff-squad.com\/wp\/?p=573"},"modified":"2025-08-26T09:49:29","modified_gmt":"2025-08-26T05:49:29","slug":"k-series-oem-axle-setup-measurements","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/k-series-oem-axle-setup-measurements\/","title":{"rendered":"K-swap OEM Axle Setup &#038; Measurements (Long Version)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>Note: this is the long version article with extra details. Click here for the short version.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>When it comes to K-swapping a <em>legacy chassis<\/em> or <em>golden era Honda<\/em>, there&#8217;s many axle companies on the market with tons of axle stage choices (DSS, Insane Shafts, Hasport, ProFab, etc), some good, some bad, some in between. It can get quite convoluted and frustrating. For those searching for an factory <em>OEM axle<\/em> setup &#8211; read on! I went factory OEM axle setup back in &#8217;08-09 after doing some research on <a href=\"http:\/\/www.k20a.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">K20A.org<\/a> and with help from Brian at Karcepts and haven&#8217;t looked back.<\/p>\n<p><em>Quick back story&#8230;<\/em><br \/>\nWhen I dropped in my EP3 K20A-R engine in the\u00a0 summer &#8217;04, I used a set of axles from a company by the name of <em>ProFab<\/em>. I don&#8217;t think they exist anymore but their axles held up fine for the period of time I used them with the exception of one major annoyance. Upon acceleration, I would experience a nasty shuddering sensation from 1000rpm to about 4500rpm. That shuddering drove me NUCKING FUTS. Made my civic feel like an early 2000&#8217;s B16 swapped EF civic on the verge of falling apart. As it turns out, these axles were probably not balanced nor sported any <em>dynamic dampers<\/em> (the black rubber donut at the center of the shaft factory axles have). That damper usually aides in eating up (dampens) vibrations. At my wits sometime around 08, I googled around for alternatives which landed me on an <em>OEM axle setup <\/em>thread over on k20a.org forum.\u00a0 Switching over to a factory axle setup was a GODSEND. No more shiddy shuddering, just glorious OEM smoothness. It was soo relieving.\u00a0 Oh and they&#8217;ve held up fcking great with road race abuse over the past 10+ years too and I haven&#8217;t had to rebuild them once in that time!! OEM IS BEST!!!<\/p>\n<h3>K-series Axle Measurements<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"http:\/\/www.ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-content\/uploads\/axle.gif\" alt=\"K-series Axles\" width=\"334\" height=\"251\" \/><\/p>\n<p>All axle measurements posted here were taken with the axle <strong>fully compressed<\/strong> and then <strong>measured from end-to-end<\/strong>. photo soon.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>02-03 EP3 Civic Si (4&#215;100)<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 24&#8243;<br \/>\nPassenger: under 22.5&#8243; (exact measurement soon)<br \/>\nOutboard spline: 32mm<br \/>\nShaft diameter: 25.3mm<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> runs a short passenger side axle for some dumb reason. The driver side axle is fine to use on legacy chassis k-swaps. Steer clear of the passenger side tho, only useful for donor parts excluding the shaft.<\/li>\n<li><strong>04-05 EP3 Civic Si (5&#215;114)<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 24&#8243;<br \/>\nPassenger: 22.5&#8243; &#8211; 22-5\/8&#8243;<br \/>\nOutboard spline: 32mm<br \/>\nShaft diameter: 25.3mm<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> (1) same 5 lug + axles found on Base RSX. (2) Best axle choice for legacy chassis k-swaps with native 32mm 4-lug or USDM ITR\/JDM EK9 CTR 32mm 5-lug conversion.<\/li>\n<li><strong>06-11 FA5\/FG2 Civic Si<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 25-1\/8&#8243;<br \/>\nPassenger: 23-5\/8&#8243;- 23-3\/4&#8243;<br \/>\nOutboard spline: 36mm<br \/>\nShaft diameter: 26.3mm<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> (1) Passenger side axle HIGHLY recommended for legacy chassis K-swaps with 36mm 5-lug conversion + RSX Type-S drive side axle. (2) For legacy chassis kswaps with Karcepts 36mm 4&#215;100 hub users, it is suggested to swap inboard joints if using these axles.<\/li>\n<li><strong>06-11 Civic FA1 Base Model DX\/EX 5SPD:<\/strong><br \/>\nDriver: N\/A FOR K-SWAP USE<br \/>\nPassenger: 23&#8243; &#8211; APPLICABLE FOR 32mm HUB K-SWAP USE!<br \/>\nOutboard spline: 32mm<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> The discovery of using this axle for the passenger side was made only a few years ago. It turns out its the absolute perfect length for a passenger side axle for 32mm 4 or 5 lug wheel hub users. For the driver side you would simply use a Base RSX or EP3 Civic Si axle and no inner hub swapping is necessary.<\/li>\n<li><strong>02-06 RSX Base (5&#215;114)<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 24-1\/16&#8243; &#8211; 24-1\/4&#8243;<br \/>\nPassenger: 22.5&#8243; &#8211; 22-5\/8&#8243;<br \/>\nOutboard spline: 32mm<br \/>\nShaft diameter: 25.3mm<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> (1) MT + AT axles are the same length. Half-shafts are NOT the same length (auto is shorter). (2) same 5 lug + axles found on 04-05 EP3 Civic Si. (3a) Best axle choice for legacy chassis k-swaps with native 32mm 4-lug or USDM ITR\/JDM EK9 CTR 32mm 5-lug conversion. (3b) Best to swap inner joints to gain some additional length on the passenger side but isn&#8217;t mandatory.<\/li>\n<li><strong>02-06 RSX Base + 04-05 Civic Si w\/swapped inner joints<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 24-1\/16&#8243; &#8211; 24-1\/8&#8243;<br \/>\nPassenger: 22-7\/8&#8243; (an axle gain of 3\/8&#8243; &#8211; not bad!)<br \/>\nOutboard spline: 32mm<br \/>\nShaft diameter: 25.3mm<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> Swapping of the inboard joints <strong>only works on factory OEM Honda\/Acura axles<\/strong>. This will not work on any aftermarket axles. Again, swapping of the inner joints with these axles is suggested but not mandatory to help gain some additional passenger side axle length for peace of mind. When joint swapping, the tripod bearings are <em>married<\/em> to their joints and not the axle &#8211; so don&#8217;t swap the bearings!<\/li>\n<li><strong>02-06 RSX Type-S<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 23-5\/8&#8243;<br \/>\nPassenger: 22-5\/8&#8243;<br \/>\nOutboard spline: 36mm<br \/>\nShaft diameter: 26.3mm<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> According to Karcepts findings, swapping of the inboard joints with these axles is suggested for proper axle length when using Karcepts 36mm 4&#215;100 hubs on legacy chassis kswaps.<\/li>\n<li><strong>01-05 JDM RSX Type-R<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 25-1\/4&#8243;<br \/>\nPassenger: 23-3\/8&#8243;<br \/>\nOutboard spline: 36mm<br \/>\nShaft diameter: 26.3mm<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> longest factory RSX axles<\/li>\n<li><strong>ProFab<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 23-7\/8&#8243;<br \/>\nPassenger: 23-1\/8&#8243;<\/li>\n<li><strong>Hasport (EGKAX)<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDriver: 24-1\/4<br \/>\nPassenger: 23-1\/2&#8243;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong><br \/>\nK-swap OEM Axle ingredients<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">Using a pair of the following factory K-series axles:\u00a0 02-06 RSX Base, 04-05 EP3 Civic Si, 02-06 Type-S, or 01-05\u00a0 JDM RSX Type-R.<\/span><\/strong><br \/>\nDepending if your vehicle was originally 4-lug or 5-lug converted, will help dictate which model axles you need to use. Specifically what your wheel hub accepts &#8211; either 32mm or 36mm outer joint size. Note that inboard joint swapping ONLY WORKS ON FACTORY OEM AXLES. Aftermarket axles are incapable of joint swapping due to manufacturing irregularities and inconsistencies (especially China made parts store axles). Aftermarket companies such as Karcepts, offer replacement wheel hubs that accept 36mm axles but retain a 4&#215;100 lug pattern &#8211; the axle info here applies to these hubs.<br \/>\n<em><strong>What about Accord or TSX axles?<\/strong><\/em><br \/>\nThey&#8217;re overall too long (both half-shaft and axles) to use for legacy chassis k-swaps.<\/li>\n<li><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">Swapping the inboard joints is key!<\/span><\/strong><br \/>\nDoing this forces the use of the whole driver side axle onto the passenger side of the vehicle and the passenger side axle onto the driver side of the vehicle. <span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">The point of this is to gain maximum and proper axle length on the <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">passenger side<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\"> of the vehicle getting it as close to <strong>23&#8243; inch<\/strong>\u00a0length as possible<\/span>.\u00a0 Swapping is not mandatory but is HIGHLY SUGGESTED. Especially with Karcepts hubs (or similar copycat hubs) and for vehicles that are too low with a tucking tire.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h3><strong>Application Scenarios<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong>4&#215;100 with 32mm axles<br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">If your vehicle is 4-lug like most civic\/integra&#8217;s are (excl. Type-R), you will want to use a pair of factory <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">RSX Base model axles<\/span>. Base model axles, by default, have the the 32mm splined outer joints. Base axles will <em>plug-n-play<\/em> into any legacy chassis with 4&#215;100 front wheel hubs. Simply swap the inner joints, install axles, and you&#8217;re done. EP3 axles can be used but with caution, <em>see below in the Alternative axle section<\/em>.<br \/>\n<strong>Note:<\/strong> I&#8217;ve found that swapping inner joints is not really necessary for genuine Base RSX axle use if your car isn&#8217;t super low, though vehicle height does play a role and you will gain about 3\/8&#8243; more passenger axle length when swapping inners around. I&#8217;ll leave the joint swapping choice up to you.<br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #ff0000;\"><strong>NEW ALTERNATIVE AXLE OPTION<\/strong><\/span> &#8211; The 06-11 Civic base (FA1) dx\/ex 5-speed passenger side axle is the PERFECT length for 32mm 4\/5 lug hub K-swaps. No inner joint swap necessary as its already a nice 23&#8243; length axle! Even shiddy aftermarket parts store is good enough to use to get you on the road (unsure racing wise). For the driver side, a Base RSX or EP3 Civic Si axle are fine to use and again no inner joint swapping necessary!<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><b style=\"font-weight: normal;\">5 Lug w\/32mm axles<\/b><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">If you have converted to US Integra Type-R or JDM CTR EK9 5 lug (aka 32mm 5 lug) on your legacy chassis, <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">RSX Base model<\/span> axles are usable\u00a0as well. The US Type-R 5-lug front wheel hubs cater to the outer axle spline joints that utilize a 32mm axle nut-outboard joint. Simply swap the inner axle joints, install axles, and you&#8217;re done.<br \/>\n<strong><span style=\"color: #f00;\">NEW ALTERNATIVE AXLE OPTION:<\/span><\/strong> SEE 4&#215;100 32mm axle note above regarding using an 06-11 Civic FA1 passenger side axle and Base RSX or EP3 Si driver side axle.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong>5 Lug w\/36mm axles<br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">If your vehicle has been converted to JDM ITR 5-lug w\/36mm splined outboard joint, the <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">RSX Type-S<\/span> or <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">RSX Type-R<\/span> axles are the ones for you. 98+ JDM ITR 5-lug front wheel hubs use a larger outer splined joint by default using a <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">36mm axle nut<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">.\u00a0 RSX Type-S &amp; Type-R axles share the same larger outer spline joint &amp; 36mm nut. So, Type-S\/R axles will basically plug &#8216;n play into these hubs. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">Swapping of the inner joints is <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">NOT REQUIRED<\/span><\/span><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"> as the axle lengths are perfect for this application (especially with RSX Type-R axles)<br \/>\n<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/strong><span style=\"font-size: 14px;\"><span style=\"color: #f00;\"><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\">UPDATE:<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><strong><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">\u00a0I&#8217;ve found out (through others and a close friend) that using 36mm RSX-S axles unmodified w\/36mm 5 lugged swapped EG\/EK\/DC2&#8217;s doesn&#8217;t always work for some. Especially with EK&#8217;s using EKK2 Hasport K-swap mount kit and even DC2&#8217;s with an EGK1 swap mount kit.\u00a0<strong><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">This happened with a close friend of mine.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/strong>The result is the Type-S passenger side axle falls short by an inch or so.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><span style=\"color: #f00;\"><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong>The fix for this is switching over to an unmodified <u>06-11 Civic Si \/ K20Z3 passenger side axle<\/u> and retaining the Type-S driver side axle<\/strong>.<\/span><\/span><strong><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"> Turns out the Z3 passenger side axle is the perfect length for 36mm 5-lug users. You don&#8217;t want to use a Z3 driver side axle as it is too long and will likely bind. So retain your Type-S driver side axle!<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>Alternate &#8216;Hybrid&#8217; and Aftermarket Axle Scenarios<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Type-S axles w\/B-series 32mm outboard joints (4 Lug)<br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">Some are forced into this scenario for lack of parts or finding RSX Base model axles. This setup consist of using Type-S inner joints and axle shafts but using 94-01 Integra or 92-00 Civic SiR (B-series) outer joints in order to get the 32mm axle spline use for vehicles with 4&#215;100 wheel hubs. I&#8217;ve tried this scenario before and I found it works perfectly fine for street use (and possibly drag race use) but will fail big time for road racing conditions. Binding occurs within the outer joint creating friction. This friction eventually boils the axle grease and creates air within the axle boot, ballooning the axle boot to the point of almost popping! Now, the axle place that I had put these together for me, might have used 90-93 integra outer joints rather than 94-01 integra outer joints. So, I&#8217;m not going to fully throw this axle setup under the bus. So, if you go this route make sure you use 94-01 integra outer axle joints! Otherwise stick with RSX base model axles from the get go.<\/span><\/strong><\/li>\n<li><b>EP3 Civic Si Axle Use<\/b><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">The 02-05 EP3 civic Si axles are almost identical to RSX base axles in relation to being &#8220;32mm axles&#8221;. The length is where the difference is, mainly with the passenger side axle. An 02-03 EP3 Civic Si passenger side axle is way too short for use on a K-swapped legacy chassis. In fact, I think its the shortest factory K-series axle Honda makes. I know this from personal experience. \u00a0With an 02-03 EP3 passenger axle in place on a K-swapped EG, the inner boot is noticeably stretched out and you can see partially see some of\u00a0 tripod bearings pushing on the inner boot from coming out of the inboard joint. Lets just say a spirited pull on a freeway on ramp made a mess under my hood because the axle pulled itself apart. However, the EP3 driver side axle is perfectly fine to use as-is unswapped. Just stay away from using the passenger side 02-03 EP3 axle (go 04-05 EP3 axle instead). It&#8217;s only usable as a donor for its inner + outer joint parts or swapping a RSX base shaft over to it and then disregarding the EP3 shaft. You could possibly re-purpose the EP3 passenger side shaft for driver side use.<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong>Hasport EGKAX Axles<br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: normal;\">If you want to go aftermarket axles, these are the ones to get. Brian@Karcepts informed me these are the best aftermarket axles he&#8217;s used outside of the OEM axle setup and have held up great for him (he autocrosses btw). Hasport has made these the perfect length as well, so no matter how high or low your car is, the length of these axles will do the job.<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong><span style=\"font-weight: normal;\"><strong>Stage 1234878654785&amp;#^@# Axles<br \/>\n<\/strong> Sorry to disappoint, but I have zero experience with the aftermarket stages 1-5000 axles. OEM axles can handle up to about 350whp which is absolutely fine for me as I&#8217;m barely crackalatin&#8217; 228whp vtack to the tire. If I get more information on higher horsepower axle applications I will definitely update this section.<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Note: this is the long version article with extra details. Click here for the short version. When it comes to K-swapping a legacy chassis or golden era Honda, there&#8217;s many&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2154,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[99,243],"tags":[108,109,103,114,104,105,107,149,101,110,102,106,111,113,112],"class_list":{"0":"post-573","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-k-series","8":"category-k-series-tech","9":"tag-32mm","10":"tag-36mm","11":"tag-axles","12":"tag-base-model","13":"tag-inner-joints","14":"tag-inners","15":"tag-joints","16":"tag-k-series","17":"tag-k20a","18":"tag-measurements","19":"tag-oem-axles","20":"tag-outters","21":"tag-rsx","22":"tag-type-r","23":"tag-type-s"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/573","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=573"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/573\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2162,"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/573\/revisions\/2162"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2154"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=573"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=573"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ff-squad.com\/technet2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=573"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}