CKF Bypass Trick
Author: Katman • Feb 19th, 2009 • Category: ECU & WIRING, How-To ArticlesUPDATE 10/07/09
A poster by the name of William pointed something wrong with the CKF bypass trick information posted here, and well, it’s now time for yet another CKF revision! Not sure how or why my information on this was slightly off, but this article has been revamped and should have a lot less people wondering why this trick isn’t working for them (yet it does for others? weird). What William pointed out will not only fix the Code 9 issues some of you are experiencing, but is the right way in performing the CKF bypass altogether. Thank you William.
UPDATE 2/19/09 (now superceded)
I’ve slightly revamped this page to better explain the CKF bypass trick due to the CEL 9 issue that has recently arisen. There are now two methods you can perform – but – I HIGHLY suggest performing method 1 first then move onto method 2 (noted in red) if you get a CEL code 9 once you’ve tried method 1. If you’re not getting a CEL code 9 with method 1 there is no need to perform method 2 – otherwise you may give yourself CEL 54 or 9 if you apply method 2 when it is not required.
UPDATE 9/3/08
There have been reported CEL CODE 9 (CYP) issues once the CKF bypass trick has been performed on certain OBD2 civic/integra vehicles. There is a fix for this problem which is explained within the procedures in RED below.
NOTE: You DO NOT need to perform the new method if you’re NOT getting CEL code 9!
SYNOPSIS
This article describes how to trick a U.S. OBD2a/b (96-01) Civic & Integra ecu into thinking a CKF sensor is wired in when there actually is no CKF sensor available.
What is the CKF sensor?
The CKF is the Crank Fluctuation Sensor. All U.S. 96-01 (OBD2) Honda/Acura vehicles have this sensor which is integrated onto the oil pump. (CKF images soon)
This trick is aimed to help hybriders who are using a U.S. OBD2a/b ecu in their vehicle (for whatever reasons) to power their engine – yet their motor is lacking a CKF sensor.
Here’s a few scenarios where this bypass trick comes in reeeal handy:
- When using a JDM OBD2 B-series engine in a U.S. 96-01 civic/integra powered by a U.S. OBD2 ecu. JDM engines do not have a CKF sensor on the oil pump like US OBD2 engines do. Some people want to stay smog & street legit; this bypass trick allows this very desired feature without needing to convert to OBD1. It’s also been proven that you CAN pass Smog and the state REF (here in CA) while this mod is in place – passes the OBD2 scanner tool.
- When using a U.S. OBD2 B-series engine in a 92-95 Civic/Integra powered by a U.S. OBD2 ecu (via jumper harness adapter). Same info from above applies here.
For the unknowing – when using a U.S. OBD2 ecu & the CKF sensor is not wired in, the engine will run like total crap not to mention you’ll get a nasty CEL (code 54). This trick basically taps the CKF into the CKP and shares the signal. This bypass trick will save you time, money (around $300), and severe headaches!
OBD2a Civic/Integra
Please refer to the ecu pin out page for the CKF pin location(s): OBD2a pin out schematics
Get yourself 4 Scotch-lock/tap splicers
Sometimes dubbed ‘quick splice’, these can be real life savers. Get 2 of these bad boys and a pair of pliers for the squeeze-splicing portion of the job:
Locate pinout C1 (CKFP) and C4 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown.
Now, cut C1 (blue wire w/red stripe) AFTER the quick-splice. This will sever the connection that leads to the actual CKF sensor out in the engine bay. This will allow C1 to piggyback the C4 signal properly and without issue.
Locate pin C11 (CKFM) and C14 (CYPM) and quick-splice these two wires together as shown.
Now, cut C11 (white wire w/red stripe) AFTER the quick-splice. Doing this will sever the connection that leads to the actual CKF sensor out in the engine bay. This will allow C11 to piggyback the C14 signal properly and without issue.
The reason behind cutting C1 and C11 AFTER the quick-splice, is to prevent conflicts with the ECU that may arise such as CEL code 9 (CYP) and P-code 1337 (CSF sensor no signal).
FINALLY, RESET THE ECU BY UNPLUGGING THE ECU PLUGS FROM THE ECU FOR ONE FULL MINUTE OR PULL THE ECU (ie.BACKUP FUSE) IN THE ENGINE BAY FUSE BOX FOR ONE FULL MINUTE TO CLEAR THE ECU’S MEMORY.
That’s it!
Your finished OBD2a quick-splice job should look something like this:
OBD2b Civic/Integra
Please refer to the ecu pin out page for the CKF pin location(s): OBD2b pin out schematics
Locate the blue ecu plug “C”:
Now locate pinout C22 (CKFP) and C29 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown.
Now, cut C22 (blue wire w/red stripe) AFTER the quick-splice. Doing this will sever the connection that leads to the actual CKF sensor out in the engine bay. This will allow C1 to piggyback the C4 signal properly and without issue.
Then locate pin C30 (CYPM) and C31 (CKFM); quick-splice these two wires together as shown.
Now, cut C31 (white wire w/red stripe) AFTER the quick-splice. Doing this will sever the connection that leads to the actual CKF sensor out in the engine bay. This will allow C31 to piggyback the C30 signal properly and without issue:
The reason behind cutting C22 and C31 AFTER the quick-splice, is to prevent conflicts with the ECU that may arise such as CEL code 9 (CYP) and P-code 1337 (CSF sensor no signal).
FINALLY, RESET THE ECU BY UNPLUGGING THE ECU PLUGS FROM THE ECU FOR ONE FULL MINUTE OR PULL THE ECU (ie.BACKUP FUSE) IN THE ENGINE BAY FUSE BOX FOR ONE FULL MINUTE TO CLEAR THE ECU’S MEMORY.
That’s it!
Your finished OBD2b quick-splice job should look something like this:
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i have a obd2b ecu after cutting the c22 and c31 wires the cel come on
What would happen if it is done to a car that has the sensor on the pump but the sensor is broken? Is it doable?
If the CKF sensor on the pump is broken, I HIGHLY suggest performing this trick. The sensor is not needed for this trick to work.
Did you make sure to splice C22 to C29 and C31 to C30 before cutting? C22 & C31 are basically piggy backing and sharing the signal of C29 & C31. If not depinned or cut will cause a CEL.
hey wassup guys i did the procedure and still getting the cyp code p1382??? help i need inspection asap
FYI, not everyone experiences code 9 when performing the regular CKF bypass trick (excluding the updated procedure in red).
If you’ve performed the updated CKF procedure noted in red, reconnect/reinsert the pins you’ve disconnected into the respective connector so that you’re following the ‘old’ CKF procedure. Hopefully, this will fix your problem.
hey first i did it without disconecting anything then i disconnect same thing
and btw my b16 swap knock is broken would it kick that cyp code no right??
after doing this trick i still get code 54 ……any help would be a bigg thanks
i have a 97 civic dx hatchback and i am trying to BAR (ref) a 1998 B18b1 motor… i am using a 98 civic EX engine harness.. WOULD I NEED TO THIS TRICK ALSO?
i was wondering what the symptoms are without doing this ckf trick…im guessing i need to do this if im running an lsv on my ek but still is running an ob2b ecu (p2t si ecu)…
Please read the latest update – perhaps this will fix your problem
Dota,
There is no need for you to perform this trick because you’re swapping in a US ’98 OBD2 engine that has the CKF sensor integrated on the oil pump just like your SOHC engine. Only think you have to do is swap the B18B CKF 2-pin plug over to your civic harness (color match the wires to whatever the B18B CKF wiring is – if the motor comes with the harness).
Sevenfc,
The symptoms if not performed while using a US OBD2 ecu will be really crappy engine performance. Car will not idle; will be very hard to start the car, engine will stumble upon acceleration.
i just recently got an lsv with a b18b block w gsr head on my ek and im still in the break in process…and my problem is if when my car is sitting there for awhile and then i start it, my car will idle low and sometimes die unless i rev it for a couple mins to warm up and have its idle…could that b the problem why my car is doing this or just cus its just in a break in process…would u suggest for me to do this trick..
It’s the first time I commented here and I should say you give us genuine, and quality information for other bloggers! Great job.
p.s. You have an awesome template . Where have you got it from?
So with a chipped P28, you wouldn’t have to preform this trick? If B16a2 is swapped into a ’99 EK?
Thanks, and Katman great info, keep up the good work.
Cheers!!
Hi. I just swapped in a replacement 98 JDM B20B engine into my 1998 Honda CRV (automatic). The oil pump on the JDM motor is different and does not the Crank Angle Sensor rivet mounting. So I left the oil pump alone and installed the motor. I performed the CKF Bypass Trick and still have code 9 as my only check code. Will this trick work on CRV models as well? I know this write-up is fore Civics/Integras but figured it should be the same since it’s all in the computer anyways. Any ideas? Thanks.
Floorjack,
Thanks! The theme used is a modified version of Mimbo2.2
Nicky,
That is correct – no need to perform the CKF bypass trick if converted to OBD1. It’s only required to do when using a US OBD2 ecu.
Ramil,
That is correct. JDM engines do not have a CKF sensor on the oil pump, only US OBD2 engines do. I’m not 100% sure this trick will work on a CRV, but I’m assuming it does as CRV’s are built from a 96-00 Civic platform. If you are getting code 9, try following the Method 2 procedures within the how-to article.
code 54 now
I guess it’s a little different on the CRV models. All I had to do was splice the 4 wires together. No cutting or de-pinning required. Runs perfect and no CEL! Thanks Katman.
Ramil-
ah interesting! thanks for sharing your outcome. Need to test this in a civic and integra – perhaps splicing all 4 wires will be the new CKF bypass method!
Car ran perfect all of yesterday. However, today the CEL came back on at a stop light. Made it back home safe and had no issues. Code 54 is now back. Car runs perfect and idles like a champ. I cleared the code and let the car idle for 10 minutes. It has not come back on as of yet. Not sure what else to try.I tried the first method which involved spicing and then cutting a few inches back. Then I tried splicing and left all wires attached; no de-pinning or cutting. I guess the last step left for me to try is to depin C22 and C31. Any other ideas? There is nothing wrong with the performance of the motor even with the code 54, however it would be nice if there were no codes at all. Thanks.
Do I still need to perform this method if I’m using an obd2 to obd1 jumper on an obd2 jdm engine?
Peter-
No – CKF trick is NOT required when running an OBD1 ecu. It’s only required when using a U.S. OBD2 ecu.
PLEASE HELP!! I also have a 98 CRV with a jdm B20 in it with no crank sensor. I have, like Ramil, tried splicing all four and seperately and still have a CEL. Anyone have any idea where to go from here. Thanks
gr8 -
Sorry, I have no experience with CRV’s and their crank sensor at the moment. What Ramil suggested seems to be the best method for now, even though the ECU seems to throw what looks like a false-positive CEL; car runs fine yet there’s a CEL 54.
hey man great write-up. i havnt yet performed the procedure so i wanted to ask you a question first. i have a 96 prelude and i dropped in an obd1 G22 non vtec (f22 block with an h23 head) and i replaced the oil pump with an obd2 oil pump and installed the crank sensor and tdc sensor along with the obd2 timing cog and obd2 balancer shaft gear and my car only runs on 2 cylinders. im also throwing a code for the crank sensor so im guessing that the crank sensor i installed was bad. i came across this write-up and was like hell yea so my question is, if i do this do you think the code will go away and my car will run on all 4 like its supposed to?
did not solve my problem,cutting the wires cel 54 comes back on,no more code 9 though
roc,
I keep hearing about this not working for some people and I’m not sure what to say. I don’t currently have a solution, but one thing is that either method 1 or 2 shows a false positive, meaning the trick is working (car runs fine) yet throws a CEL code.
Bryan,
Nice engine setup. Um, I would assume the CKF trick would work for you. Are you using an OBD2 or OBD1 distributor? I’m wondering if your wiring for the CKF and/or TDC sensor may be crossed or mis-wired making your car run on 2 cylinders.
i dont think i’m getting a false code though,cel 54 appears and the car runs like crap
hey, i have a b18c5 w/ usdm p73 on my 98 civic. i’m getting a code 54 so i tried the “method 1″ trick and it went away but i got a code 9 instead so i tried the “method 2″ and i’m still getting a code 9.
now i’ve tried to us a jdm p73 and the cel’s are gone but i’ve heard i wont pass emissions with a jdm ecu……
so my question is how can i fix my problems with my usdm ecu which have code 9 with method 1 & 2 ??
Katman, im in process of doing the CKF trick and just realized my C14 wire is BLACK, compared to the one you have in your write up which is WHITE (C14). my C12 is WHITE. Does this make any difference? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
I have done the trick and my engine runs better but somtimes during long ride the check engine pop up and it gives me Cylinder 1 misfire, Random misfire at the same time..But theres no misfire at all and the engine still running great…
Have U ever heard about that?
Guillaume,
Yes, this sounds like the false-positive anomaly that this trick sometimes has for some people. You can try resetting the ECU by pulling the ECU fuse (in the engine bay) for 30 seconds, whenever this happens. It’s all I can suggest for now.
mathai,
If the wire color is different, no problem. It’s the specific pin location (C14) that is important because that is specifically for the CYPM. Wire colors sometimes change between certain year Honda/Acura’s (hate that!).
ba2,
True, you cannot pass emissions (at least here in California) with a JDM ecu. My only suggestion to resolve your issue(s) is to run a US OBD2 B-series oil pump w/CKF sensor. It’s all I can suggest for those who this CKF trick does not work for. I’m rather bummed these issues have arisen recently…
I have an OBD-2 motor and ecu. Im trowing a code for the Cfk malfunction. could i do this instead of buying a new sensor?
Katman,
I have a B18C on a 97 ek9 and i’m using a 98 ex wireharness, Will i have to do this trick or not?
P.S. Great job on this website!
I have a 1997 civic ex with a d16y7 and plan to swap a newer 1999 d16y8.
will i need to do this CKF bypass trick to make it work?
thanks
Leo,
You only need to perform this trick if you’re using a US OBD2 ecu.
Btw, if you are using a US OBD2 ecu, you’ll need to swap out EX’s 3-wire EX CKF plug for that of a B-series 2-wire CKF plug found on 99-00 Civic Si and 96-01 integra’s.
Mario,
You could definitely try it!
packard,
No, shouldn’t have to perform this trick at all.
Your 97 EX wire harness should plug n’ play about 95% to the 99 D16Y8 engine (excluding the distributor; u should reuse your 97 EX distributor (or any 96-98 EX dizzy) if you still have it – don’t use the 99 dizzy, uses a different smaller dizzy plug).
my EX is a canadian model stock with D16Y7 originally. so still i do need to perform this mod? is the Y7 OBD2a or OBD2b? what about the Y8?
cheers
Packard,
Canadian aye? (no pun intended)
The CAN EX model should be the same OBD2 type as US models, so in your case 96-98 civics are OBD2a (its the year of the car that dictates OBD2a or b type). The Y8 is from a 99 so its OBD2b spec (99-00 civics = OBD2b). Interesting a CAN EX is a non-VTEC model (Si model has the Y8 correct?). You still do not need to perform this mod as all OBD2a/b US and CAN engines sport a CKF sensor.
Katman! thanks for this great find and for assisting everyone with it!
I myself had to do this trick after my CKF sensor got messed up. It worked like a charm and my engine started up and ran just like it did before the sensor went out. I have not gotten any CEL codes at all.
I do have a problem though!
It was time to do a SMOG check here (Cali) and so I took my car to get SMOG’d. They Failed me because they said
my cars timing at idle was jumping up and down from around from 9 or so to 14-15 degrees!
I was being honest with the guy and told him the CKF was broken so I did a bypass on it and he said that is most likely what is causing this problem with the timing at idle.
Does this bypass trick affect the timing at all? has anyone else checked the timing after doing this bypass?
After I did the bypass I never got any CEL codes at all and it runs just like it did before, so I am abit confused as to what could be going on. Any help in trying to fix this timing issue would be great cause I cant drive my car until its smogged!
Thanks again
Katman,
Yes, I’m using a obd2a p72 ecu.
I’m not sure what does the EX’s 3-wire EX CKF plug looks like nor the color of the wires. Can you please provide a pic or just tell me the wire colors, thanks.
Leo,
The CKF sensor is located on the oil pump, right near the crank pulley. You’ll have to raise up your car and remove your driver side wheel to gain better access to it. Here’s a pic:
http://ff-squad.com/tech/sensors/ckf.jpg (d-series shown). OBD2 B-series is in the same location but is a 2-wire sensor. All you need to do is color match the 2-wires a B-series CKF sensor uses and disregard the 3rd wire (off your harness).
Kent,
Interesting info there.
I’m not 100% sure if the CKF trick is causing ignition timing fluctuations. This is actually the first time someone has reported this to me. I mean, I could see how it could possibly affect ignition timing but a couple tests would need to be performed to single out if the CKF trick is actually causing this problem. Damn.
Thanks for getting back to me Katman,
Let me know what tests need to be performed and I can start to do them on my car so we can start compiling some data and see if the CKF trick is causing the ignition timing issue at idle or something else is. Thanks Katman
Kent,
No problem, but, the test would need to be performed on a car equipped with a working CKF sensor. The test would consist of monitoring ignition timing while the vehicle is running and CKF sensor plugged in and the second test would be to monitor ignition timing while the vehicle is running w/CKF trick in place.
lol, yeah that is an obvious way to do it. I guess I just interpreted your response in meaning tests could be done on my system with the idle timing problem to determine if the CKF trick did it.
If you are able to do such a test it would be great if you can share your findings (or anyone else reading this)
maybe you can ask such a question for someone to do this test in the main CKF article?
much appreciated
Quick questions ..
My friend has D16y7 obd2a a/t and he is going to use OBD1 p06 HONDATA s300 with OBD2A to OBD1 Conversion harness..(the car converted to MANUAL TRANSMISSION ..and Turbo)
Does he need to trick CKF ?
And what about IACV does it need to re pin?
hey can I do cfk bypass with a auto 97 civic lx
@ Sam
Yes you should be able to.
Fuat,
No, your friend doesn’t need to perform the CKF trick because he is converting to OBD1. As far as the IACV goes, he will have to convert to a 2-wire IACV. I suggest he run a 92-95 DX/EX/Si intake manifold as well. IACV wiring info can be found here:
http://ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.96-98.jpg
and
http://ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.96-98_a-plug.jpg
I am trying to do the same thing to my 01 prelude that i have dropped a jdm h22a in, which is replacing my usdm h22a1. I am currently using my h22A1 wiring harness, ecu, and intake manifold. I am using my jdm distributor with an internal coil. there are four wires coming from back of the motor by the oil pump that we have spliced into the distributor plug wires. Upon first start it idled about three minutes and died. THe car will stay running as long as i keep constant pressure on the pedal, but as soon as i let off, it dies. My car is not throwing any codes. Can you help me figure out what we have done wrong, or know where to access jdm wiring diagram or schematics? thanks
Yo Katman…
I bought at b18b1 obd2 its a japan made motor. the cks plug is diff than the ex harness…. im so confused the car wants to crank but there is no fuel going into it…. since the cks is not working, no i was using a p75 ecu then i re read the forum and i need a p72 ecu is that correct??? also should i use the same method wit c1 c4 c11 c14 if i plug the p72 in……. I need ur help bra……. thanks
@ Angel
If that’s a true JDM B18B non-VTEC DOHC engine, there shouldn’t be a CKF sensor on the oil pump (JDM engines don’t run a CKF sensor on the oil pump like US OBD2 motors do). Regardless, if your B18B engine DOES have a CKF on the oil pump, you need a 2-wire CKF plug from an OBD2 integra or 99-00 Si. 96-00 SOHC Civics all use a 3-wire CKF plug which needs to be switched out if going US OBD2 B-series. Whoever told you to run a P72 ecu is an idiot. You have the correct non-VTEC ECU (P75) to power your B18B engine. P72 is a GSR (B-series VTEC) ECU which would throw a check engine light for VTEC components you do not have on your B18B engine.
OK so take the plug off the acura harness and wire it up to the harness on Sohc? I did that and the car still would not crank…. dude this is drivin me crazy!!! the crank sensor of the motor has two wires that are blue and white when i cut it off the harness the blue wire split into two wires the same blue and a brown wire so three wires where there. thats what makin me go bananas right now im starting to work on the car now hope to hear from u soon ill be checking back in every hour or so… thanks again
Angel,
Just color match the CKF wires from the integra harness to your civic harness and use the wires that match. If only one of them matches, use that one, then test the other two, whichever of the extra two wires work out…there you have it. If this doesn’t work for you, then perform the CKF trick as my article above explains.
ok katman i have a d16z6 and i swapped everything off my old d16y8 motor on it except the oil pump if i use this trick since i have a obd2b ecu will my car start? i also got a d16z6 and a d16y8 obd2b dizzy plug from rywire…
@ poloboy4
yes you will need to perform the CKF trick in order for the OBD2b ecu to not throw a CEL 54.
so the car should start up if i do that then? it not turning on atm.
yo katman i have a 96 GSR integra i just dropped the jdm b18c1 im running a p72 ecu and im throwing a p1337 cfk code i did ur trick above but the check engine light is still on andi checked the codes again same thing…?does th cfk sensor pulg itself need to be sliced into something? please help
Do you have to cut the wires after puting the wires together
Hey katman, I have an obd0 b16a block with b16a2 head , car is running, but I was getting code P 1337. manufacturer control. ignition system or missfire. when i start it. car seems to run fine, i googled the code, and im pretty sure it has to do with that sensor. i performed the bypass trick c1 to c4 and c11 to c14, but it didnt get rid of the code, however, i didnt reset the ecu, so ill try that. any suggestions? have you ever heard of this code? scanned it with one of those cheap orange 100 dollars obd2 scanners you buy from walmart. need help with this fast. thanks man
Nevermind i think you have the the fix in red backwards. i depinned the c1 and c11 wires from the ecu, but then where does the CKF port on the ecu get its reading? no where. you need to cut the wiring AFTER the splice on the wiring side, NOT at the ECU side. so after you splice it together, c1 and c4 will be tied together with c1 cut AFTER the splice on the other side of the harness going towards the engine bay. same with c11 and c14, worked like a charm once i reversed the wiring.
have 99 dx civic and swaped a jdmd15b i need to perform the ckf trick in order for it to run rite
and i also have to do the 3 to 2 wire conversion on the iacv rite
Yo Katman. I got my b18b started and it is an obd2 US MOTOR but im haveing a problem since the crank sensor wires where broken and i tried to color match the wires i get check engine light and when i plug my scan tool up it say cylinder sensor my question is what should i do to get that code off (code1383) and will i pass emissions? what should i do dude car runs like a champ new headers, blox im, password jdm intake, itr TB car is amazing but still cant figure out why the code if i performed the trick .
katman i just performed the ckf bypass both ways on a jdm b18b1, and i’m now getting p1337 code. “csf sensor no signal” have you had any one else run into this problem and if so what should i do?
soooo should i hack up the wires or just leave them does this trick even work?????
@ZAK
Please re-read article as it has been updated as of today.
@Hopzing
Please re-read article as it has been updated as of today.
@Mok5r
Yes, only if you’re using a non-VTEC engine wire harness.
@mok5r
YES, CKF trick is required.
@William
Thank you for pointing this information out! Because of you, I have updated this article – thanks Will!
@Ethanjdm
Yes you do. Please re-read article as it has been updated as of today.
@Jo
Please re-read article as it has been updated as of today. Thanks.
katman pls tell me if this trick will work..
i swaped 94 gsr engine in a 98 gsr body and got a cel i do belive its because the 98 body ecu thinks that ckf is not working when i dont have one on the 94 engine so its throwing a cel….if thats the case would this trick work
pls let me know thanks
Hey I have a 97 accord and I put a 94 bottom end on the stock motor a had in it..
so I have the OBD2a head, wiring harness and ECU but the OBD1 block so I dont have a CKF sensers on it..
It wont start and im pretty sure thats the poblem do you think your trick thing would work for me??
and if so would the wires be the same as the diagram you have for the civic ecu??
Thanks for any help you can give me..
Katman,
If i understand correctly the obd1 ckp is read through the distro. And if you swap into an ek that has a ckp on the crank why couldnt you just splice into the wires from the distro insead of at the ecu pins wouldnt it read the same since you are still using the same plug and harness?? But to help out with some peoples in here you can also use a harness converter from 0bd2a or obd2b to obd1 and you will not have to worry about a ckp code even again
Katman, I have a problem with my stock 99 civic si popping CKF sensors… will this fix that and bypass the sensor and allow the car to run properly? Right now it keeps throwing a P0366 and will not rev past 3500rpm.
So i did the trick and the light gos off after the car has been turned off for a few mins but after a couple secs after i start it the light comes back on. ive done it both ways. but i cut the wire before connecting it to the other wires, is that wrong? should i keep the connection splice then cut the wires or dose it not make a difference?
I have a 98 integra with a p75 obd2a ECM. My problem is c11 and c14 have no wires going to it. What should I do? This was a gsr before I bought it and the guy made it an ls. I put a jdm engine in it and I only get a p1337. I need to get this fixed. Should I add pins to the c11 and c14? Please help
Can i by pass the crank sensor on a 97 LX CIVIC IM SWAPPING A B16 A
I HAVE PR3 OBDO AND A P2P 98 CAN I USE 98 ?
Hi, I need to pass emissions next month and just realized my wire harness does NOT have the plug for the sensor, eventhough I have the sensor I cannot plug it anywhere, can I still do this trick?
Thank you.
Mario, the PR3 OBD0 ecu will not work for your swap. I highly suggest converting to OBD1 if you don’t want to touch the CKF sensor at all. If you’re use the P2P ecu and the B16A engine is OBD1 or older, then yes, you need to perform the CKF bypass trick.
r0kaz,
So no plug, but you do have the CKF wiring dangling by the crank pulley I assume? Regardless, you should still be able to perform the bypass trick since the mod is all done at the ECU plugs. Go for it and tell us what happens.
Duke,
Are you looking at ecu pinouts C11 & C14 the correct way? You should have these pin outs otherwise the car won’t even run right.
egyptianking,
Yes this is the trick you want to do for your type of engine swap scenario.
John Snow,
I believe accords have more wiring at the CKF vs. civics/integra’s do. I haven’t tried performing the CKF trick on an accord/prelude platform. I haven’t researched this so I can’t give you an answer at this time..sorry..
Jason,
You should cut the wires as mentioned in the article.
William,
did you cut the wires as explained in the article?
wassup katman i did the trick on 2 cars and neither of them work i thought maybe the quick splice didnt connect to the actual wire so i tried wiring it by hand and still nothing…the car will die when i press the gas…
and yes i cut c1 and c11, and i was thinking if there is no sensor at all why do we not the c4 or c14?
trick worked like magic, thanks a lot Katman
trick did not work gave my 98 tegy spark thou but would not run a lil back fire blew a battery out trying wat else could i do swaped a 93 block to my 98 need help ps timings perfect n on top dead center
hey i swapped a 96 gsr into my ek hatch and i used this wiring method. I plugged in the Obd2a GSR ecu and no CEL comes on but the car bogs. When im running a chipped obd1 GSR ecu it runs fine, what could the problem be?
Thanks for posting this it has helped me alot. Did it an my car has no light now
I just got a 96-99 JDM ZC Sohc motor. I put it in a 1996 honda civic ex. I did the wire trick and t’s still running like shit. The Vtec oil pressure and soleniod connectors are unplugged and the knock sensor was broken due to the wiring harness. Do I need to jump to OBD1 ecu to fix my issuses? I’m planning on swapping the y8 head back on to the motor once i purchase a honda pulley holder.
i got a fresh b18b1 on my 98 ex coupe i’m and using a 98 dx harness and i got ckf problem if i use the trick u say will i be able to ref my engine with no problem
Daniel – I’m curious, but which method did you use? and what year and make is your car too? thanks.
Pheng- Yes, you should be able to pass the ref, at least from my experience you will. Also depends on the ref technician.
Kincaid- first off, what ECU are you using? the 96 EX ecu? or a JDM SOHC ZC ecu? Of course if you don’t have the VTEC components wired up or the knock sensor the ECU will be in LIMP mode and run like ass. After you performed the CKF trick, are you still getting the CKF CEL code?
96GSR- could be a number of things that could be causing your ‘bog’. The best way to pinpoint the problem is by checking the CEL code you may have then go from there.
Yogi- technically yes, you could but its a much cleaner and hidden job when performed at the ECU plugs vs. out in the engine bay, especially if you plan to BAR your car. And yes converting to OBD1 is a big perk in getting around this annoying sensor!
i have a 96 ex civic that i swapped a jdm d15b vtec, i am useing my stock intake and wire harness. but i am throwing a p0335 (crankshaft position sensor) would this trick work for me? if not any ideas thanks !!!!!!
Hey katman, I dropped a d16z6 in my 96 civic dx. I am using the same wire harness obd2a, I did both methods, but both methods seem to be the same. Before I did this trick, I had a ckf code number 9, when I did this trick, I got a ckp code 4. The car is idling at 1500 rpm and also won’t let me rev pass 3500. I am using a p28 ecu with a obd2a to obd1 conversion harness with hondata s300. I also switched out the guts from my distrubutor, switched the d16y7 guts into the d16z6 caseing so the distrubutor would line up. My distrubutor plug is one plug instead of a 2 plug that d16z6 have. Please help katman!!
how will this affect things if in the future i want to run hondata and tune?
also from what i am understanding, i need to try method 1 first and IF i get CEL 9 then i try method 2?
thanks for the awesome write up!
Rick- there’s actually only 1 method now since my most recent update. This mod shouldn’t affect anything regarding a Hondata, in fact, an S100-300 won’t even look for the CKF sensor so you don’t even have to perform the CKF mod being that you’ll have to convert to OBD1 anyways.
civic ek – because you converted to OBD1, you didn’t have to perform this trick at all. I would undo the CKF mod and see what happens. If you still have problems I think the source of your problems may lie with your distributor parts swapping. Perhaps you swapped something incorrectly or crossed a wire wrong.
matt96ek- YES you should perform this CKF trick if you are using a US OBD2 EX ecu to power the D15B engine. If you convert to OBD1, you don’t need to perform this mod.
malcolm- Yo. The reason for cutting C4 & C14 is so the piggyback riding these 2 wires are doing don’t mix signals resulting in CEL 9. I’ve recently updated the article on April 28th. If you’re still having CKF bypass problems, look over the article again and see if it resolves your CKF issues.
610player- if you are still having CKF bypass issues, please re-read the article as I’ve updated it as of April 28th. No idea why your battery blew out. Perhaps you didn’t perform the CKF bypass trick correctly.
Katman
im guessing it will still be ok even if i have the OBD2a to OBD1 adapter? its pretty much plug and play?
Rick- good question actually. I have not tried running an OBD1 conversion harness while the CKF mod is in place. Try it, see what happens, let me know!
well since the hondata ecu is OBD1 and doesn’t look for the CKF signal, im just gonna go ahead and see if i can just plug the ECU harness straight into the OBD2 to OBD1 adapter and see if it works. if not, then i’ll try the bypass trick.
thanks and i’ll keep you updated